Connoisseur’s say...... A fair percentage of my role as Wine Consultant for the Marriott Hotels is that I have the enviable task of assessing a whole gambit of wines that come across my desk on a daily basis. A tough task indeed!! Today was no different to any other except that the first of the anticipated arrival of a selection of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs from the 2007 vintage had come to bare, and for this three different offerings were eagerly awaiting my attention.
It is still quite an interesting proposition when you think that these twin islands of four million people and 9 million sheep, is setting the standard for new world Sauvignon Blanc. From the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island in particular, they have refined what I believe to be a quintessential style of this classic grape variety, profiling a more fruit driven tropical expression of the grape. Indeed, for the uninitiated, this style can stun with its intensity, and may seem an altogether different wine than the traditional grassy or flinty, often austere versions found in the old worlds more traditional bench-marks of Loire Valley and Bordeaux.
Over the last few years, in particular vintage 2005 and 2006, examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc have had more of your powerful aromatics with classic gooseberry fruit, and that freshly cut grass/herbaceous element, complemented by rich tropical fruit aromas. Combine this with the much anticipated, juicy, characterful palates and that tart, edgy acidity and you will know why I was eagerly anticipating unscrewing the caps on my bounty of 07’s and really seeing if the ravings about this vintage where in fact matched by the quality of the wines.
Just for the sake of being politically correct, I also included a bottle of 07 Sauvignon Blanc from a new producer from the Nashik Valley as an Indian benchmark.
My friends from Huia Vineyards and Seresin Estate from the Marlborough Valley were good enough to send me a selection of current offerings available in small amounts on the outside world but alas, not seen in any way shape or form in my present environs. Yet!!
Having been an avid fan of both of these stylish, handcrafted wines for a long time now, it was good to renew my friendship with both of what some consider being the finest wine producers in New Zealand. I am happy to say that it was not all about Sauvignon Blanc. The Pinot Noir that came with the same postman epitomizes why certain cool climate wine regions like Marlborough Valley stand up to Burgundy and sometimes challenge its mantle as the benchmark of all things Pinot Noir. But that is a commentary best left for another day.
This day was all about 'Savvy B'.
First wine in the glass was an Indus Wines Sauvignon Blanc. A first vintage offering from a new comer of the Nashik Valley. The first thing you notice about this wine is that it delivers a delightful variance from those other Sauvignon Blanc produced in larger quantities from this cornerstone wine region of India. Whilst it offered that expected simple zesty freshness you find in young Sauvignon Blancs from this country, this particular wine had a surprising mid-palate softness that was immediately appealing. Something, I was not expecting. Usually the vast majority of these wines tend to be uninteresting and somewhat one-dimensional at the least, but this one I am glad to say, disproved the norm.
The next three wines I assessed were done so together. Being of the same lineage, I thought it appropriate that I did it this way. Huia Vineyards, Seresin Estate, and Saint Clair Estate all hail from the Marlborough Valley New Zealand, and each in its own way brings some tangible spiritual quality to the table. The adherence to sustainable vineyard practices in the case of both Huia and Saint Clair, adds a discernable 'other' degree of clarity and quality to the wine that others attempt to emulate. In the case of Seresin, the belief in the cause and affect of organic wine philosophy has lifted this producer to the top of the heap. The wines are nothing short of extraordinary.
From the start what was noticeable in each wine was the underlying varietal typicity that is the benchmarks of this variety. Richly characterful palates and tart, edgy acidity. But there the similarities ended, and in each glass, each of these wines was a delicious ensemble of balance, texture and palate length. Just when I thought it over, each wine exploded forth with a whole barrage of idiosyncratic characters and nuances that just beguiled my senses.
This is what it is all about. And this is why I do what I do. Each of these was a shear delight to drink. As a bench mark for the 'New World' and this is very hard for an Australian to say, the Kiwis have it mastered!!
If there is to be a yard stick for Indian Sauvignon Blanc to aspire to, one of these three wines would be an advantageous kick-start along! Unfortunately, due to the current excise rates in this state, these beautiful wines and many more like them may disappear from the shelves all together. And in the end, unfortunately leave the local industry without any qualitative benchmark from which to judge themselves against.
That would be a shame!
Happy drinking!!
Saint Clair is presently available in select quality bottle outlets through-out Mumbai, whilst both the Seresin and the Huia are exclusive to the JW Marriott Mumbai.
by Craig W Wedge,
Courtesy www.ambrosiaindia.com