About Wine : puneet

Spot light on Wine – Central Otago New Zealand - Puneet Dhall

admin — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 20:11:00 GMT

In the last 20 years New Zealand has burst onto the International scene with its wines, which are so full of flavour and character. In many ways India can look at the growth of the New Zealand Wine Industry and draw some parallels to its own growth phase.

New Zealand has a somewhat cooler climate than other grape growing regions of the world, such As <![endif]>its Neighbour Australia. This cool climate allows the grapes to spend longer on the vine ripening, and this in turn is thought to lead to greater concentrations of flavanoids within each berry. Hence we witness in New Zealand Wines an intenseness and richness of expression.

The first New Zealand Region to come to the International fore was Marlborough, where the planted Sauvignon blanc was seen to display freshness and intensity of Goosebury and grassiness unlike any other Sauvignon Blanc produced in the world.

Since then many other Regions in New Zealand have gained International prominence. We focus today on one particular region which has caught the eye of the world – Central Otago.

Central Otago Location:

Central Otago can be found at the bottom of the South Island, nestled in some of the most spectacular scenery in New Zealand. At 45 deg South it is the Southermost wine region in the world. It is by far the coolest of the New Zealand Wine Regions, which made it the perfect match for the likes of Pinot Noir and white aromatics such as Riesling and Pinot Gris. If ny region in the world can match the finesse and elegance of great Burgundian wines it is either Oregon In the USA or here in Central Otago. The Pinot Noirs that have come from here have found International Acclaim.

“This is God’s Country when it comes to Pinot Noir.” (James Halliday in Panorama 2000)

"Many believe this is where the Pinot grail is to be found" (Jancis Robinson - Wine Atlas of the World)

Central Otago Climate:

Central Otago is the only area in New Zealand with a semi-continental climate resulting in greater daily and seasonal extremes of temperature than found elsewhere in the country. Locked in deep valleys, surrounded by snow covered mountains, the vineyards have very low rainfall, (40cms per year at Bannockburn), though just 120 kilometres to the West, Milford Sound is the second wettest place on Earth with around 28 feet of rain being often seen in a single year. This proximity to very heavy rainfall means that we have large amounts of water available, but not a lot of it comes from the sky. The very low humidity (30-40%, typically) means that Botrytis rarely causes problems and gentle anti rot regimes can be easily achieved.

Summers are hot and dry, with autumns cool and generally dry with cold nights. Rain falls evenly throughout the year and averages from 325-700mm per annum, generally increasing to the west. The large diurnal temperature variation - the difference between daytime and night-time temperatures - contributes to flavour intensity, gives depth of colour and stability to the wines.

Long days and very little cloud add to the heat summation. Peak temperatures are often around 31-32º in the summer, but the nights are cool - one day last year we measured 33ºC maximum and 3ºC minimum in one 24 hour period!

Heavy frosts are common throughout winter and frost can occur at any time between March and November. Vines are susceptible to frost in the growing season and as a result most vineyards are on warm north-facing slopes which promote cold-air drainage. On flatter sites wind machines, water sprinklers and misting systems or other frost protection measures are adopted.

Great Wineries:

Names to look out for are Felton Road, Mount Difficulty, Chard Farm, Olssens, Peregrine, Two Paddoks amongst many. One I particularly want to spotlight today are the Great wines of Mt Rosa. I tasted these wines recently, and believe the expression in the Pinot Noir is superb – not only the richness but the minerality and elegance which one associates with the finest and at a very fair price. Similarly their Pinot Gris – A gold Medal winner at the recent New Zealand International Wineshow, and the Riesling were just fantastic. Below I have given some information on their wines. If you have any further questions or would like to know how to get hold of their wines to sample yourself – just ask me and I’ll do my best to help.

In New Zealand, Central Otago’s Gibbston Valley has become synonymous with producing some the world’s most unique pinot noir. Located at the eastern end of this valley is Mt Rosa, a legendary merino sheep station and one of the largest wine producers in this dynamic region. Mt Rosa’s vineyards produce a range of wines including the region’s flagship, pinot noir.

Mt Rosa has extraordinary natural potential, with its extensive sunny sheltered north facing vineyards and ideal soil type.

Wine	Mt Rosa Tasting Note	Wine information
2006 Riesling	“Lime, spice, ginger and mineral flavours with a warm rich elegant texture and an off dry finish.”	Alcohol 12.1% PH 3.20 TA 6.0 R/S 9.5
2007 Sauvignon Blanc	“Ginger, capsicum, fennel and guava aromas, a soft textural wine.”	Alcohol 12.5% PH 3.15 TA 5.9 R/S 1-2 g/l
2006 Pinot Gris (Gold NZIWS / Blue Gold Sydney)	“Lime, guava, mandarin skin, nectarine and honey blossom aromatics, rich and warmly textured with lots of elegance and finesse and a soft finish.”	Alcohol 13.8% RS 4.6 TA 4.7
2006 Pinot Noir	“Spicy aromas and a generous blackcurrant and dried herb flavour profile. A warm, richly textured mouthfeel and soft finish.”	Alcohol 13.5% T/A 6.3 Ph 3.61 RS dry <2g/l

Puneet Dhall for indianwine.com

Let Me Introduce Myself and the Bronze Dancing Girl from Mohenjo-Dara

admin — Sat, 27 Oct 2007 20:06:00 GMT

Sat-Sriakal, Namaste, Salaam, Pleased to meet you….Enchante.

61 Years Ago The British, ruled India….There were no Indians in Britain, and in India – ‘Wine’ if uttered at all meant ‘a distilled drink so potent in alcohol it would knock your socks off on a cold night’

Figure 1 Bronze Dancing Girl from Mohenjo-Dara circa 2500 B.C

61 Years later and Indians in India are responsible for their own fate….Indian food is the most popular dish in the UK, and in India – wine is beginning to mean wine again.

Why do I say ‘Again’. It seems to me that the current inhabitants are discovering something that has long been known about in these lands.

India has had its fair share of civilizations. Last Century Archaeologists discovered evidence of the Harappan Civilization circa 3000 B.C – now thought of as one of the three Ancient Civilizations. Such was the skill and knowledge of this civilization that they crafted magnificent works of art including the famous ‘Bronze Dancing Girl of Mohenjo-Dara’ circa 2500 BC.

Since then we have, amongst others, had the Vedic Era, Mauryans, Alexander and the Macedonians, The Guptas, The Mughals, The British and now The Indians….How will this Civilization come to be known in Centuries to come…..

The point is that Cultures, Technologies and Foods have ebbed and flowed with these epochs as surely as the tides of the seas. The Great Bronze Craftsmanship of the early Harappans disappeared on their demise and only re-surfaced hundreds of years later.

The story of wine treads a similar path, flourishing in certain era, floundering in others – but one thing is certain – it was always In India.

….And now 60 years after Independence, Indians are coming out of the shadows of previous epochs and are reaching a new period of self definition – with themselves and the world around them. At present in India, it is almost as if wine is that bridge which links Indians to the notion of the developed world. If the Caste System has been Shed, The Class System is stamping its authority.

Wine is many things to many people. My own romantic vision is based in the Feudal times of European and Russian history, as hard working peasants having worked hard in their Masters’ fields, would at the end of the day, in their small abodes, find solace in each other’s company, a hunker of bread and a caraffe of wine. For the likes of Napoleon or Jehangir, it was drunk out of Golden Cups and cemented their status in society as Imperial Monarchs.

At its most simple and sublime, it is a food which allows people to more easily connect with people and even themselves. The aromas and tastes, evoking new thoughts and memories, emotions and needs. These things are not taught – they are felt. Indians do not need experts from this country or that swilling glasses this way and that, to be educated about wine. In every Indian, the history of wine abides deep within themselves. It is just a memory that needs to be re-awakened.

So where will the Indian wine revolution go from here….One of two ways I think – you can discuss the merits of each. The path of Marketing need, of Global Capitalist requirement….Wine as the Symbol that exclusively Champions the aspirations of the new breed of Indians – The burgeoning Middle Class – The magic number ‘200 million’, a prize to be had. This wine will have difficulty being Indian. When Indians taste this wine, they will taste Paris, Milan, Los Angeles – Not Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore….perhaps that’s what is wanted.

Or….The path of ‘Indianess’. An Ancient product, long known to Indians, re-introduced to its people – all people - as a product that has no class owner, but rather symbolizes classlessness itself. The natural empathy between people.

I am not advocating either path, and am not saying that they are mutually exclusive, but I do wish in talking to Indian winemakers and Indian wine-drinkers, that at this stage of development, there may be less insistence to look outside India to find the answers

Having Studied Viticulture and Oenology, I worked in winemaking for several years in New Zealand - in particular at Sacred Hill in Hawkes Bay, where I worked with Senior Winemaker Tony Bish and his team. Since then I have worked as a Fine Wine Merchant at Fine and Rare Wines in London. During this time, I have observed the Indian Wine Culture, spoken with many farmers, tasted many wines and have also mapped out Viticulturally optimum micro-climates for various Varieties within India.

To all the pioneering winemakers, merchants, farmers, wine clubs in India – I applaud what has been achieved thus far. What I throw out there is, if this is really a Revolution, then each one of you who has been involved in the journey thus far needs to ask themselves now ‘What is the philosophy and ideology that drives Indian Wine’. In France they do have a term for this. It is called ‘Terroir’

Author: Puneet Dhall

Michel Chapoutier – Visionary in the Rhone Valley France - Puneet Dhall

admin — Fri, 18 May 2007 14:26:00 GMT

Michel Chapoutier is one of the principal Winemakers in the Rhone Valley. His wines come from both the Northern and Southern Rhone Appellations. He believes the highest quality wines are grown as close to nature as possible, and employs organic methods wherever possible. All his wines express single varieties from single Vineyards. Michel believes that wines are at their optimum when paired with foods – To this end he designs his wines with long, elegant finishes. I was very privelged to recently attend a Masterclass with Michel in London, whilst tasting his latest offerings……
For more information on Chapoutier here are his website details http://www.chapoutier.com/

Attended: Thursday 10th May - Michel Chapoutier 06 Tasting
Report:Puneet Dhall

06 Chapoutier "Concentrated like 05 / Elegant like 96"

It was summer in London, it was raining. It was the Groucho Club in Soho. The streets were slightly steamy, The people and traffic hustled by. It was a busy days.... One of those days where the whole world is working. The beaches are empty, the bars are quiet save for those regulars who never quite leave.

On such a busy day the 30 or so 'trade gang' sat intimately at long impassionate tasting desks. A hushed chatter hissed across the room... The odd sentence could be overheard..."Is En Primeur Good for you....05 Burgs is stunning...My Girlfriend likes to...."
Shiny glasses shimmered....and through the doors came the Maestro.

"Phenolic and Physiological" he chimed in his Gallic tones "Global Warming is having an impact in two ways...The temperature and CO2. With both increasing, plants are making more sugar and we are finding that grapes are reaching optimum Physiological maturity at higher alcohols....We have two choices...Continue to pick at Phenolic levels i.e when alcohol is say 12 % etc, but this means we are finding green vegetal characters in our wine. Or we can pick at Physiological ripeness and makes wines at higher and higher alcohols. This also will be a very big problem" The maestro looked down glumly...obviously there was no hope in this dilemma. But suddenly a glint came across The Maestro's eye, a curl of a smile...his head started rising, his proud finger erect was pointing towards the sky...In elation he cried "BUT we have an Oenological answer to rising alcohol...WILD YEAST" We all let out a sigh of relief...Thank God there was a solution and this possible crisis was being averted. "Wild Yeast" he continued "eat more sugar than cultivated yeast during fermentation. In this were we can use up more sugar, have lower alcohol wines which are beautiful balanced and tasteful......"

Michel Chapoutier believed that the 06's in Rhone, unlike the rest of France were superb and better than 05. This was because the harvest rains that layed siege elsewhere did not materialize in the Rhone. I concur. I tasted the 05's and 06's and the key note was the incredible body of the wines, and perhaps the most elegant least bitter tannins I have ever tasted in a wine.

Tasting notes
Saint Joseph Blanc Les Granits 100% Marsanne
Minerality, Soft Fruit, Peach, good acidity holding it up...v little oak influence a slightly bitter end which Chapoutier likes as he believes this complements food. V Good

Ermitage Blanc De L'Oree 100% Marsanne
Nose - more pungent and smoky than Granits / fresh palate / beautiful body / long length - elegant V Good

Ermitage Blanc Le Meal 100% Marsanne
Meal means'honeyed' and this does come through in this white. Slightly warmer / poss more alcoholic than others / slightly dusty nose and quince. In the mouth Big and Bold - superb balance - Superb

Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite 100% Marsanne
More Flinty/Mineral, balance not quite there for me a touch more acidity for length and to hold it up perhaps. Again trademark length Good

ChdPape Croix de Bois 100% Grenache
Youthful Pink rim / Chalk Flint / Wild Cherry / Incredible silky tannins...Concentrated and elegant Superb

ChdPape Barbe Rac100% Grenache
Deeper Red / Distinctive Flint Nose / slight fizz still fermenting from Wild Yeast..Again great tannins..V Good

Crozes Ermitage Rouge Les Varonniers 100% Syrah
Rasberry/Flint/White Pepper some Black Currant
v spicy cinnamon and licorice. Gorgeous after taste V Good

Saint Joseph Rouge Les Granits 100% Syrah
Deep Red / Funky Nose / savoury, gamey. Again the beautiful elegant tannins, you can drink all these reds now and its a joy. Have to believe Michel that these tannins will only get better over 20,30,50+ years. V Good

Cote Rotie Rouge La Mordoree100% Syrah
Beauty some rosemary - Big fresh start fruit burst drifting off to lovely finish with a touch of warmth.Very very long finish silky Superb

Ermitage Rouge Le Meal 100% Syrah
If I was Parker 96-100. Rich Opulence. Perfect Body and length,. Spicy but not too spicy gorgeaous lick your lips fat texture. Incredible

Ermitage Rouge Le Pavillon100% Syrah - Star of Show (just pipping Le Meal)
Even slightly sooty on nose. Delicate spicy, beautiful texture, silky tannins

Bit more ripe/Jamy than above - also bit too spicy Good

Puneet Dhall