About Wine : wine and food

Paco & Lola wine from Rias Baixas Albariño grapes - Marta Benedet

admin — Tue, 22 Mar 2011 15:24:00 GMT

There is something mysterious about Galicia only known by those who live there. There is something wild and abrupt in its landscapes of high mountains and steep cliffs. Also its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, which 365 days a year hits its shores in force leaving in its removal hundreds of women collecting shellfish on the beaches and among the rocks.

The gray and rainy climate of the region gives some respite per year in the very few sunny days that are well received by the pilgrims who, about to finish his journey, are approaching Santiago de Compostela from all over the world.

The strength of Christian faith coexists with the remotest pagan beliefs in the minds of the Galician. “Las meigas” (witches) are much more than just a legend to the inhabitants of the small towns of the coast of Galicia.

Ordinary people in many of the backyards of their houses still have the barns (“hórreos”), so typical from this land, that were once used to store cereals in the period between harvests.

Sitting at the table in Galicia is to enjoy the traditional taste in soups and stews, good bread, good wine and excellent company. But what the visitor can not miss is the “Empanada gallega” (sardine / tuna pie), the “lacón con grelos” (front pork leg pieces cooked with turnip), the “pulpo con cachelos” (boiled octopus served with sliced potatoes with skin) and the seafood, another classic.

In the area of the Rias Baixas Albariño grapes are grown and they are the ones which compose entirely the wine Paco & Lola. No doubt this wine will add a color on any table that has its presence. The fun design of the bottle, very chic, prepares us for the pleasant experience that involves drinking it. With 13.5% alcohol, comes from the best selection of grapes from each vintage and even taste better if we are aware of that the cellar, winner of numerous national and international awards every year, is working with a production of Integrated Sustainable Agriculture.

Marta Benedet

Vegazar red 2003 vintage, a wine with “Castilla” personality

admin — Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:55:00 GMT

In Spain the wine is not just a product but part of our culture, it´s quite logical if you realize that every single region in Spain produces its own wine and every single one has different features that make it unique. Let´s travel through all of them to understand a little more this fabulous part of our lives.

Today we will talk about the Ribera del Duero geography and climate. The Ribera del Duero is one of the most important wine regions of Spain, not only for its large size, 11,300 hectares approximately, but for its features that make it unique and very special.

It goes all along the banks of the river Duero which is 115 km long and crosses the Spanish territory from Soria, the birthplace in the Picos de Urbión (Iberian System) to the Atlantic Ocean crossing Porto (Portugal).

The soul of the river is the heart of Castilla itself and that is why the wines from this region have inherited the strong and stern but generous character of the people there.

The continental climate that the vines support puts them to the limit, with extreme temperatures in summer and winter, susceptibility to frost in the winter and drought in many warmer months. In summer, temperatures can range from 32 º C during the day and 6º C the same night.
All this stimulates the production of vital substances that become extremely intense color and aromas.

Generally, the vines that are able to survive such extreme conditions produce a dark, deeply aromatic and superbly structured wine, with intensity, style and longevity. In fact some experts have defined these wines as the longest-lived wines of Spain, showing their long slow process of evolution in a cluster of various sensory manifestations while arriving to the glass.

That´s the case of the wine that I introduce you today, Vegazar red 2003 vintage, a wine with “Castilla” personality. Bright cherry red color with violet tones. In nose fruit aromas (blackberry, cherry, sweet cherry) and flowers. The taste is full-bodied wine while subtle because of its fine and elegant tannins, with a long aftertaste. It has 13.4% alcohol and is perfect with all kinds of meat, cheese and sausages.

Marta Benedet

PROSECCO- THE NEW CHAMPAGNE? “ Prosecco has become a sexy alternative to Champagne”

admin — Mon, 09 Aug 2010 18:52:00 GMT

Refreshingly easy to drink, this versatile, fruity, sparkling wine from the Veneto region of Northern Italy is now bubbling worldwide. Gaining acceptance as a less expensive alternative to Champagne, it is rapidly becoming the drink of choice for consumers seeking a fashionable, festive, sparkling wine which won’t break the budget.

Prosecco is both the name of the grape and wine, primarily grown in the hills from Conegliano and Valdobbiane,- the main areas of production in the Veneto region (just north of Venice). It is produced using the Charmat method whereby the secondary fermentation takes place in large steel vats. Contact with the yeast is brief which is why Prosecco is typically fresh, fruity and slightly aromatic.

In 2009 the Italian government recognized the distinctive geographic area of Coneglian and Valdobbiane by awarding it the prestigious DOCG status (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). The G stands for “Guaranteed” and basically ensures the winemakers must adhere to stricter guidelines than DOC wines. The primary difference is these wines must undergo an in-depth chemical analysis and evaluation of a tasting committee before they can be bottled. They are then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.

Considering there are only 41 DOCG regions in Italy compared to 300 DOC this is a noteworthy allocation and entitles Prosecco extra prestige and recognition as an exclusive sparkling wine in its own right.

This newly acquired status can only help worldwide sales of Prosecco which have already increased visibly according to Mondial Wine. In the UK alone, sales have doubled; Pierpaolo Petrassi Senior Product Development Manager for Italy at Tesco explains, “Prosecco is stylistically appropriate for UK consumers who are not looking for more structured, (usually) drier and more premium-priced Champagne.”. It is traditionally served without food and is fresh in style.

In America; “Prosecco is on fire and will continue to grow as consumers look for alternatives to high-priced Champagne,” says Leonardo LoCascio, president and CEO of Winebow Inc.

According to the U.S. Department of Commerce, consumption of Italian sparkling wines grew 14 percent, up to 16.7 million litres from 14.7 million litres the previous year. This growth includes other popular sparkling wines coming out of Italy, such as Oltrepo’Pavese, Asti Spumante and the prestigious Franciacorta. A crisp and elegant sparkling wine, it is often compared to Champagne, as it uses the same grape varieties and production method (methode Champenoise) where secondary fermentation takes place in bottles. Though lower in cost, Francicorta undergoes even stricter regulations than Champagne regarding maximum yield and maturation time. It is produced in much smaller quantities than Prosecco, but it is another of Italy’s sparkling wines gaining worldwide recognition and accolade.

It is not only the Americans and Europeans who are embracing Italian sparkling wines with such fervour, sales in Hong Kong (regarded as the Asian hub) recorded a dramatic rise of 81.2% in terms of value.

In December last year, Italian farmers' union Coldiretti said that exports of Italian sparkling wine would exceed domestic consumption for the first time. It said Prosecco was showing "dynamic" growth in foreign markets. Around 340m bottles of sparkling wine were produced in Italy in 2009, with around 160m bottles supporting the new Prosecco DOC and DOCG denominations.

Most commonly drunk on its own, Prosecco also makes for an enticing cocktail. Undoubtedly the most famous Prosecco based cocktail would be the Bellini, from the renowned “Harrys Bar in Venice”Frequented by the Genre of Ernest Hemingway, Oscar Wilde and Henry Fonda, Harrys Bar has always been a destination for an artistic entourage.The Bellini cocktail was invented by its owner back in the 40’s andaccording to their Head Barman it still remains the most popular drink onthe menu – “perfect whatever the time, whatever the season”.

The Bellini is prepared with freshly squeezed white peach juice and prosecco, served in a chilled Champagne flute. The perfect end to a perfectday.

Salute!!

Christine Macleod

Christine@vinouno.com

www.vinouno.com

Champagne and Textures Degustation menu

admin — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:16:00 GMT

The Champagne & Textures degustation menu showcases a Champagne cellar selection and the food focuses on molecular gastronomy which is currently all the rage in Spain!

“Champagne is known as the “King of wines” or as most people say it is the “wine for kings”. Probably the best description of Champagne is by Dom Perignon when he had his first taste, “Come quickly, I am tasting stars”. Usually served as an aperitif or as a toast at the end of a meal; hence it is often overlooked when it comes to food. However, as Champagne is naturally acidic, it makes a really good food match - and not just for oysters and caviar as you might predict, but for a variety of different food, which I discovered at a recent trip to Champagne and naturally I am a convert now.

Having heard of the Champagne and Textures in Delhi, I immediately booked a table for hubby and me and I was certainly not disappointed. Lodhi at the plush Aman Hotel exudes class from the minute you walk in until the time you leave. Coming to the experience, to begin to savour the flavours we made a grand gesture with the quintessential “caramelized foie-gras, moscatel grapes, along with cinnamon brioche, the grapes added a twang to the flavour and the foie gras was superbly done- a bite of molecular heaven. This was just very, very good cooking: intense, and obtusely original, in the sense that it’s not rooted in history or region or culinary orthodoxy or fashion. The Brut cuvee 732 by champagne Jaquesson NV perfectly paired from the wine list as recommended by cellar master Kavita Faiella. Another starter we tried was the “Carpaccio of Scallops, Lemon Caviar, Mustard Cress and Sparkling air” the scallops with flavourful orange ginger compote and plums were superlative and I must say that the Lemon caviar is the epicurean apogee of molecular cooking, delicate and wobbly and they popped like balloons in my mouth to reveal a juicy center - intense, fruity and the type you’d want to drink directly from the bottle. Of course, the glass of brut rose by champagne Billecartsalmon NV was just perfect for this one as well.

Kudos also for the “Margret of duck with strawberries and rose petals”, an exquisite concoction with an airy smoky flavour. Ever so willing to experiment “Chef Jonay Armas”, thrills with offerings like this clever one as the combination is beyond compare.

The Rose had a rich, savoury character and was delicious with the duck, and had the power to stand up to high levels of herbs and spices specifically basil, mint and coriander.

We ended on a sweet note with “lemonyogurt soup with hazelnut crumble, honey mousse and apple granite” paired with Demi sec1 cru “jouy-les-reims” by aubry NV. Demi Sec is a term used to define a wine with medium sweetness; it can be a blend of any grapes. In Champagne, the addition of a dosage or liquer d’expedition after the secondary fermentation determines sweetness. An edge of sweetness to the food (like many classic Thai recipes) then this style can provide a better match than dry. I had this Demi sec once with a wedding cake. I personally love it with strawberries.

It is obvious that nothing is compromised here, from carefully engineered dishes, to impeccable service, the ambience is extremely chic, and it definitely is a cut above the rest. Needless to add that being here is reason enough; soaking in an elegant era while enjoying a selection of viands below reproach.

(The writer Rupali Dean is a Hospitality Professional)

Curtsey: http://www.ambrosiaindia.com

Joys of Sweet Wines

admin — Sun, 25 Jan 2009 16:09:00 GMT

Availability of good imported beverages has been consistently improving, not just in hotels and restaurants but even our ine shops. Yet, certain delights of the segment are taking far longer than expected to arrive here. Importers blame the F&B professionals who do not stock these.

Those in the power to place orders with importers say good imported wines do not move well enough and keeping a consistent supply chain is difficult. The consumer – those who are aware of the goods being denied just bring in their own, somehow; and others are not aware of what they are missing.

No Taste for Sweet Wines
Often that is the refrain one gets to hear. And another often repeated one is that it is difficult to pair Indian food with sweeter wines. However, in my personal experience, when a bottle of good sweet wine is opened among even moderate wine drinkers it is gone before you have a chance to even appreciate its pairing ability with food.

For those who have traveled around the world and tried different options, learning to appreciate and differentiate between excellent or good, mediocre or rubbish,
it is easy to know their palate in the wine segment. Rest of us have to learn it right here, even though wines are expensive in India. Maybe the various wine clubs and societies have to do more in this field.

Indian palate is more tuned to the sweetness and we appreciate quality as well, but lack of appreciation cannot be blamed for non availability of a particular segment. And as for pairing ability of sweet wines with food – it’s not everyday that we consume a bottle of wine on a table of four with butter chicken, seekh kebab, daal and raita! But we do think of a wine while ordering salads, entrée, main course consisting of duck, pork, cheeses, lamb and all kinds of antipasti.

Styles of Sweet Wines In rapid fire rounds where one is expected to respond to a question without taking time to consider their response, if an informed wine lover is asked to identify ‘Sweet Wines’ chances are they would say: Sauternes, Tokaj, Ice Wine and the German style (TBA) or Trockenbeerenauslese from Austria.

Premium grade dessert wines are often sold in smaller 375 ml bottles but Sauternes and Tokaj are available in the usual sizes because they are often enjoyed as an aperitif and or paired with dessert too. While each wine maker may add their individualistic touch to the way they make the wines, (a Tokaji may range from dry to intensely sweet dessert style); the aromas and complexity of these wines comes from not just the grapes but the style followed. Ageing ability of some of these wines is unbelievable, making a good vintage worthy of being kept at the right temperature for decades.

The beauty lies not just in their colour, aroma and texture but the freshness they retain despite being at times (not always) almost viscous with sugar content. The lighter versions of even late harvests of aromatic grapes like Chenin Blanc, Semillon or Sauvignon Blanc are easier to enjoy with more manageable sugar content.

Technical Bare Essentials
Irrespective of the grape used, the sweet wines need higher levels of sugar and alcohol and this is done by former leading to the latter. Removal of water from the grape to intensify the sugar and flavours is done by air drying the grapes when the climate is warmer, freezing out the water in cooler climates of in damp conditions using noble rot to desiccate the grapes. Essentially the sugar content of the grape is decided in the vineyard.

Addition of sugar or alcohol does not happen in better qualities and standard wines. Most appellations declare the various doctoring if undertaken by addition of sugar for fermentation or addition of brandy.

A Sommelier
One of the best selections of sweet wines in Delhi is with the Imperial hotel. It is not just a coincidence that the resident Head Sommelier, Stéphane Soret, is French. With over a dozen options, it is heart warming to note the list has a fair balance between the very exclusive, expensive and a more affordable range.

A 1982 vintage of Château d’Yquem Lur-Saluces is priced at an impressive 23,500 rupees but they also do a ‘by the glass’ option of the more affordable but impressive Château Jolys Petit Manseng Jurançon. And they offer the affordable version in a measure of 75 or a 150 ml. As Stéphane emphasises ‘this is an excellent Sauternes-style wine at a fraction of the cost of a Sauternes with delicious be getting the ‘second cousin’ treatment, being almost add on for a comprehensive look. Even Brindco has five labels in their otherwise rather large wine list. Importers with smaller portfolios also tend to include at least one or two sweet wines but promoting them is another matter.

Mumbai based company, FineWinesnMore, has my personal favourite Ben Rye from the house of Donnafugata in Sicily. It is one of the five they have in their portfolio and Dharti Desai, CEO & Founder, is in agreement that given the exposure to dessert wines, Indians will understand and desire sweet wines more as, ‘our palate when it comes to spirits is conditioned towards the sweeter taste, that is why we prefer to add coke, other soft beverages or juice to our spirits.’ a wine glass with strawberries and then poured his wonderful Rosetta Malvasia! The experience and the ceremony will forever remain etched on my mind,’ she concluded.

I too remember the Vin Santo I enjoyed in Chianti with almond biscotti. And a Gewürztraminer tasted in France, though it had no dramatic ceremony but the quality was exceptional. And another one was the 1942 vintage of Chateau Belingard Monbazillac (80% Semillon with Sauvignon and Muscadelle) again in France at the winemaker’s home after a gracious dinner.

There are others including offerings from South Africa and Ice Wine from Israel, enjoyed and remembered. Their arrival and availability in India is awaited.

Ameeta Sharma

Courtesy: http://www.ambrosiaindia.com

Indian Food and Wine - Hari Nayak

admin — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 18:39:00 GMT

Well known New York chef, author of Modern Indian Cooking and consultant to several restaurants Mr. Hari Nayak sharing the wine tasting tips with Indian food along with award wining recipes to indianwine.com

Pairing wine with Indian food is complicated and challenging, as there are a lot of competing spices and seasonings to contend with. Its complex layering of spices and chili heat makes it tricky. The traditional conventional methods about pairing food with whites and reds does not hold true in Indian cuisine for example a heavy creamy and spicy lamb curry or beef korma will pair well with whites and flavorful seafood dish can go well with reds.

One important rule to remember is that there is no rule!!

Some tips to keep in mind

•   Lesser the alcohol level is better because alcohol tends to intensify the heat in a dish

•   Reds with less oaky and more intense fruit flavors works well with the complex tastes of the cuisine

•   Whites with light acidity and mild fruity textures will balance the richness of the Indian dishes.

•   The refreshing bubbles and palate-cleansing acidity of sparkling wines would also work with Indian dishes that have heavy sauces

•   A dry rose, which has some of the complexity a red as well as the acidity of a lighter white, can also be paired next to a lot of Indian dishes.

Indian Recipes with matching wine

Indian Chicken with Cumin and Peppers

Tiger Prawn Curry with Lemongrass

Aromatic Lamb with Green Peas and Cumin

Author: Hari Nayak

About Hari Nayak
Hari's passion and love for food has been apparent in his various successful ventures as a chef for the past 15 years. Hari graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1998. Hari has trained under world renowned chefs like Albert Adria of El Buli and Marcus Samuelson of Aquavit to name a few. Hari has been providing culinary & consulting services to various organizations like Sodexho USA, ifoodTV, Whole Foods, Robert Wood Johnson Foundation and Kraft foods . For more info about the author on www.harinayak.com.