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February 2008 - Posts
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Jean-Louis Bossuet & Nancy Kinzbrunner shares the importance of the wine barrel usage in the wine making process and also Indian experience for indianwine.com. Tonnellerie Bossuet cooperage France is a small but highly reputed French barrel manufacturer exporting all over the world.
 1. What are the type of the Oak Barrels in the world? and their qualities.?
The types of oak barrels manufactured are 225, 228, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500 liters in capacity; French oak or American oak are the two wood types; and the oak is sourced from European forests ( France, Eastern Europe, Russia), or American forests.
2. How it is manufactured?
The barrels are manufactured in the cooperage by a semi-industrial process - the important stages are hand manufactured by individual coopers : toasting, hoop fitting etc. You should look at the website which gives details of manufacturing process with photos.
3. How it is useful in the process of wine making?
 Oak is extremely important in imparting aromas and maturing the wine. Initially, when the wine is put into barrels, it contains a high tannin level due to the natural tannins present. The role of the oak is to integrate and soften or subdue the aggressive tannins. The process can be compared to what happens with a sponge - the millions of cells in the timber form a labyrinth through which oxygen infuses from outside into the barrel and through to the wine. Thus, an exchange takes place between the outside air and the wine in the barrel, rounding the tannins, developing the aromas and bringing finesse. The toasting of the barrel inside, one of the indispensible manufacturing stages, is very important in imparting particular aromas and the level of toasting used (see point 4. below) imparts particular aromas. The toasting level is usually chosen by the winemaker according to the type of wine being made and the character he/she is looking for.
Barrels also give a longer life to the wine made in them and some of these wines, if they are sufficiently structured, can become "vins de garde" i.e. wine that is still good and indeed improves over the years in a bottle. A quality barrel does not "take over" the fruit in it and does not dominate the wine - that is, it should respect the wine, imparting the woody aromas necessary, enhancing, not masking the flavors.
4. How do I identify a wine with or without wine barrel toasted?
On tasting, it is usually evident to the experienced wine taster/drinker. Wine that has not been through oak has not benefited from the oxygen exchange process and has a totally different quality and taste. The three types of toasting level also give a particular "taste" :
Light toast : Vanilla aromas but risk of green character
Medium toast : Fruity aromas, rounded tannins and balance between the fruit and the oak.
Heavy toast : Toasty, smoky aromas of coffee or chocolate.
5. What is unique in your wine barrels?
Bossuet barrels are reputed for their characteristics of finesse and ability to harmonies with the wine in them, neither dominating, nor being too understated as the wine develops. Mr. Bossuet is also a stave merchant, sourcing and selecting his oak personally from the most highly reputed French forests of fine grain "haute futaie" oaks. This reliability in sourcing is definitely an advantage. The cooperage is still a relatively small one which means the barrels are made semi- artisanally and not mass produced on a production line, though hi-tech methods and machinery is used.
6. Cost, life and how many times we can use it?
The present cost of a new French barrel is between 500 and 600 euros; American oak are less expensive and 1 and 2 year used barrels are less expensive again. A new barrel can be used for 3 years so can be used 3 times.
7. How Indian wineries are using the wine barrel?
 Indian wineries are presently using a mix of new French oak and 1 or 2 wine used barrels. Some wineries are also using American oak barrels. Wine making is still in its early stages for many wineries in India and though a dozen or so wineries use oak barrels, we hope that this will increase so that better quality and finesse can be achieved. At present, Indian wine is less structured than, say French wine and Indian tastes in matters of wine are different, but gradually developing, so use of barrels should develop too.
8. What should they do it if they need to improve the quality of the wine by using wine barrel?
For red wine, to improve quality, wines should go through barrels for approx. 9 to 10 months - like the gestation time for a baby ! For whites, less time in the barrels is advised - 6 to 8 months is advised.
9. What kind of wine barrels may fit for Indian climate?
As the Indian climate is very different, we advise using very fine grain barrels which are more suited to the structure of Indian wines. The fine grain ensures that the oak will not dominate the fruit with its aromas and allow a balance between the two to develop. Barrels should be kept in hygienic conditions with correct moisture content in the barrel room.
10. Tell about you and your experience on the wine making process.
I am first and foremost a cooper - making barrels is my skill and passion. However from my experience of the wine-making process, the most important rule to be observed is that the wine should be enhanced by its "marriage" with oak and not be dominated by it (as I said above) - there should always be a "respect" for the fruit and thus the potential wine in the barrel- this is indeed a subtle partnership !
11. What you like about India?
We have visited India 3 times so far - twice in 2006 and again in November 2007. I like experiencing the dramatic culture contrast between India and Europe and the warmth and hospitality of the Indian people wherever we go. The desire to learn and exchange with other cultures is strong and there are mutual benefits to be gained from these exchanges. I am also impressed by the vibrant colors one encounters everywhere and the calm of the Indian people.
Nancy Kinzbrunner can be reached at
Tonnellerie Bossuet cooperage
Website : www.tonnelleriebossuet.com
for indianwine.com Venki
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Bordeaux’s alchemist winemaker, vineyard owner and consulting oenologist, Dr Pascal Chatonnet has recently joined forces in India with Mandal Valley Winery’s Ramesh Rao. He plans to bring Californian quality to Mandala Valley’s Zinfandel, and more. IndianWine.com welcomes Dr Chatonnet to the Indian wine industry…
 Now that Dr Chatonnet, the world-renowned who is also a partner of winemaker Michel Rolland is here in India, he is working on Vintage 2008 at Mandala Valley, Bangalore. This vintage of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz will be ready for the market in summer 2009.
Obviously enough, his first visit to India has him tasting and exploring the local produce. With 30 years of experience behind him and a double PhD, specializing in aroma, aging, development and quality, under his belt, this wine doc’s verdict is priceless. “India has a unique and interesting climate,” and not to forget the variations!
“There is no winter in Nashik, which is quite unlike the growing conditions in European vineyards. To add to this difference, there is a marked variation in day and night temperatures. The difference in climate provides challenge and interest to vine growing and winemaking here. This gives the wines their unique character,” says he.
Coming closer to Mandala Valley’s turf, he says, “Bangalore is still cooler and that gives a more fruity character to the wines.” Chenin Blanc, grown widely in India, is a natural choice he says, given that it responds well to a hot climate.
The next to figure on Dr Chatonnet’s star list in India is Sauvignon Blanc, for its very nice fruit characters.
After approving the already popular Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc varietals, the wine doc recommends Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz for the Indian conditions. He calls them the “Plastic Varietal,” the name justified as they adapt to a variety of climatic conditions. “Though Shiraz can adapt to any climate, Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc adapts only slightly,” he shares.
Reflecting upon his speech at the recently held Conference on Global Warming, he signals that the Indian wineries will not have trouble if vineyards can source good water. “It is imperative for vineyards to have the right amount of water at the right time,” he lays stress.
Talking of grapes and vineyards, he moves on to winemaking technology. In addition to passion for creating great wines, he believes in the scientific approach to “finalize micro and nano components of the wine.”
Even though it is his first visit to India, he seems to have settled in quite well. And finally, India also figures in his illustrious profile. This winemaker, with aces in academics and experience in oenology, has the added advantage of hailing from a family with over 200 years of history in winemaking.
He delivers complete solutions to the winery industry, including the cork, barrel and packaging subsidiaries. He also owns and manages several family wine estates in Europe, besides being consultant oenologist to many more in the wine industry.
Now that he has made his debut in the Indian wine industry, we look forward to his creations, as he puts in the best of ingredients – wine wisdom, viticulture and technology to create unique avatars for Indian wine, Zinfandel and otherwise.
Great work Mandala, for bringing Dr Chatonnet to India!
for indianwine.com Venki
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One of the Tuscan specialties, Tenuta dell 'Ornellaia wines have recently entered the Indian market. On his visit to India, Giovanni Mazzoni, Area Manager, Ornellaia wines spoke to Ambrosia about his plans for the Indian market.
Excerpts:
 Inspite of the heavy duty existing in the Indian market for imported wine and spirits, there is a beeline of wine companies to enter into the market. One of them being the Tuscan fame, Ornellaia wines, it’s certainly wonderful to find some great wines available for the Indian wine connoisseurs.
According to Giovanni, it is the structure of the market and the level of the five star hotels which has attracted his company to India. Apart from that, it was the demand for good quality wines which has brought us to India, he said.
The duty structure is quite complicated because in one hand the tax has been reduced but on the other hand it has also been increased by the state governments.
In case of Ornellaia, the situation is quite different as there is an enormous demand for the wine in comparison to its production; hence, the company has allocated a small quantity of wine to the Indian market.
Another reason why Giovanni is not so concerned about the excessive duty is because the company is targeting at the high-end consumers and premium hotels. It is not our intention to be in retail or wine shops also because we could never supply that much stock to them. It is impossible for us to cope up with the huge channel of sales in India, he said.
Ornellaia wines are more than super premium brands and it is one of the most sought after and collectible wines, which makes the brand more than super premium.
The Ornellaia wines will be available in all the five star hotels and the only wine which could be sold by glass is Le Volte which has 50 per cent Sangiovese, 30 per cent Merlot and 20 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon in it.
In the Italian market, the good vintages in retail shops or high-end wine shops would vary. A bottle of Le Volte could cost €17 to €19 and Ornellaia could range from €125 to €145 depending on where the wine shop is.
Italian wines have gained popularity around the world also due to Italian food which has a greater fan following. What kind of opportunities does he see for Italian wines all over the world? We are in a very different segment of wine production. Ornellaia is an elite wine in niche markets. Hence, it is difficult to talk about wine in general. Whether French wine or other Italian wines, Old or New world wines, the demand for Ornellaia is so high that we don’t have to worry of the competition at all. The total sales volume of the company is almost 700,000 bottles per year which is divided in between 4 types of wines.
The company produces about 350 to 360 thousand bottles of Le Volte, 140 thousand bottles for each Ornellaia brands, super selected Masseto is produced in about 30 thousand bottles in a year during selective vintages. Otherwise the quantity of production is decreased.
Regarding the export market, he said that Ornellaia has established its reputation firstly in domestic market which is a tough market too. Today our distribution share has reached to about 39 per cent the demand in the market is more than what we supply. Some major export markets for Ornellaia are US, Germany, Switzerland, UK, and Japan.
In the Asian region, apart from Japan, we are present in South Korea, China, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand, Taiwan, and India.
This is my first visit to India in three years and the intention is to understand and see the potential and also to introduce two new vintages of Ornellaia, he concluded.
About Tenuta dell 'Ornellaia
One could certainly make the argument for Tenuta dell' Ornellaia in Tuscany’s Bolgheri region. This estate has a track record envied by wineries all over the world. The two top wines from the estate, Ornellaia and Masseto, are sought out each year by serious collectors and have received critical acclaim that matches the first-growths of Bordeaux .
What makes Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia wines so spectacular is its unique Bolgheri appellation, the micro-climate of the estate, rigorous attention to the vineyard, and sublime winemaking.
Two new vintages of Tenuta Dell’ Ornellaia now available in India
Tenuta Dell’ Ornellaia Le Volte 2005 IGT
50% Sangiovese – 30% Merlot – 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Each grape variety was vinified separately in small stainless tanks so that fermentation management (extraction and temperature) respected the different characteristics of each variety. Malolactic fermentation was carried out in stainless steel after the alcoholic fermentation. The wine was then matured for 10 months in 2 – 4 year old barriques, which had previously been used for Masseto and Ornellaia ageing.
Elegant and enjoyable, the 205 vintage is characterized by ample fruity, slightly spicy notes. Round and full in the mouth, it combines the Mediterranean generosity of Sangiovese with the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and the softer tones of Merlot creating an extremely pleasant wine.
Tenuta Dell’ Ornellaia Oenellaia 204 Bolgheri Doc Superior
60% Cabernet Sauvignon – 25% Merlot – 12% Cabernet Franc – 3% Petit Verdot
The bunches were hand-picked into 15 kg bins, and the fruit was carefully graded and selected on a double sorting table, before and after destemming. After a light crushing, each variety and vineyard block was vinified separately giving birth to a total of 51 different base wines each interpreting the considerable diversity of the Estate’s terroirs. A week-long fermentation was carried out at 26-30oC in stainless steel, followed by a maceration of 18 days. Malolactic fermentation took place in oak barrels (70% new and 30% once used). The wine remained in barriques in the temperature controlled cellars of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia for a total period of 18 months. After the 12 months the master blend was made. The wine was then re-introduced into barrique where it spent the remaining 6 months, followed by 12 months in the bottle prior to release.
2004 can be considered as on the major expression of Ornellaia and represents and excellent example of a classic vintage in Bolgheri. The ideal conditions during the growing season lead to a perfect combination of ripeness, flavour, complexity and finesse. The velvety opulence of the Merlot is balanced by the racy and elegant tannic structure of the Cabernets which are amplified by the addition of Petit Verdot.
Courtesy: http://www.ambrosiaindia.com
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Nasik is truly called the Napa Valley of India. Not because both the places have the same alphabet in the beginning of their names but because of the reason they are famous for. If not considered the geographical situation and economic differences, only similarity that both these places share is the kind of wine that they produce.
A report:
 It is believed that the summers of Napa Valley are similar to the winters of Nasik. So, the harvest times also follow accordingly and this gives almost a similar kind of effect to the grapes that is grown in these two places. Apart from this, time and again it has been discussed that Nasik produces some of the amazing Zinfandel which is a special Californian variety. The Nasik Valley Grape Wine Producers Association (NVGWPA) vouches for it. Rajesh Jadhav, an executive director of Rajdheer Wines and an active member of the association says that the Indian wine market seems very positive at present. Now whatever wine is produced by the Indian wine manufactures, 90% of it is consumed. It is a fact that both, the Indian wine market and the indigenous wine industry are in their nascent stages, but growing by leaps and bounds.
One of the wine enthusiasts on his visit to the Indian wineries has said 'The one thing that struck me in general was that the varietals are true to their taste. Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, herbaceous, and fresh- very similar to New Zealand wines. Chenin was particularly impressive, it was fruit driven and like in Loire Valley. The sparkling was full of bubbles, crispy and light on the palate. I think it will go very well with the spicy Indian food.” What amused and pleasantly surprised him was the Zinfandel, wondering how they got the clones from California he was impressed by it being so fruity and light in comparison with some Californian Zins which tend to be too powerful, big and tannic.
In recent times, the Indian wine growers have got recognition and support from the state government. The government is also planning to showcase "Wines of India" across the globe. The Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA) are working out the strategy and the campaign will be finalized soon. India has recently received its first order for wine exports to the US and Indian wines were also being served in restaurants - both Indian and Western. Approximately 0.1 million litre of wine is exporting to France, Italy, Germany, USA, New York, U.K. and Singapore from Maharashtra state, says Rajesh.
The NVGWPA has designed a promotion strategy which would include analyzing the internal support mechanisms including easing tariff barriers for the liquor. The promotion campaign will target the US, the European Union, South Africa and Southeast Asia in a major way. There is more and more awareness about wine as a product in the Indian market. Changing life styles, frequent travels abroad, more and more women employment, increase in per capita income, international research on health benefits of wines; all have combined together to create wine awareness in India; apart from the fact that good quality wines are now available in the market. The Association is encouraged about the fact that the wines have gained acceptance in terms of taste and quality and performance of the products are good in the market.
Though the association is well aware with the increasing involvement of the global spirit companies in the Indian wine market, it has decided to cope up with them by educating people in India. Highlight wine as an important value added farmer’s product, wine as a healthy beverage. Appeal strong media support to promote the Indian wines, strong Govt. support to protect the value added Indian Grape Processing Units which is mostly set by Indian Farmers and to increase and maintain the International Quality level of Indian wines.
A study show that the Indian Farmers have the highest sustaining capacities, and the association is all set for that, says, Rajesh.
Facts about India’s wine consumption: During the year 2005, the total annual production of wine in India was 6.214 million litres, out of this 5.4 million litres is produced in Maharashtra alone that comprises 2.54 million litres of red wines, 2.69 million litres of white wines, 0.15 million litres of sparkling and 0.036 million litres of rosae wines. This is a very small fraction as compared to world's annual production of 32,000 million litres. India also imports 72,000 wine cases (9 litres/case) in a year where 32,000 cases are bottled in origin and remaining 0.36 m litres are imported in bulk flexi bags and subsequently bottled by Indian wineries. Besides this, about 12,000 –15,000 wine cases are sold through gray market.
The biggest consumption up to 80% is however confined to major cities like Mumbai (39%), Delhi (23%), Bangalore (9%) and the foreign tourist dominated state of Goa (9%), where as rest of India has only 20% consumption. Some Indian wine makers have also started importing foreign made wine and bottling and selling it here in India.
 Grape varieties produced in India: Almost all wine grapes used in India originated in France including Chardonnay, which makes fruity and buttery wines, and Sauvignon Blanc. Wine made from this grape is traditionally grassy and herbaceous, and a lot dryer than that from the Chenin Blanc grape, which gives a sweeter, fruitier wine.
Unusual whites include the Viognier and Clairette. Grover Group's white wine is made from these. The best-known reds are the Cabernet Sauvignon (on picture) . Wines from this grape tastes of blackcurrants and tannins; the Shiraz grape produces big dark wines tasting of blackberries and vanilla; while the Merlot (not a great success in India) makes soft and plummy wines.
Zinfandel is an American immigrant by way of Italy. Red wines made from this grape tend to be brash and very fruity, while the Roses are semi-sweet and very refreshing.
Courtesy: http://www.ambrosiaindia.com
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 Tourism is soon becoming the mainstay of the Dubai Economy. The growth of the tourism market has help drive the alcohol market has experienced immense growth in recent times, driven by the influx of foreign companies, expatriates and tourists. Wine has been the major driver of this growth, with France, Australia, South Africa, Italy, Chile and the USA the major suppliers (in that order). With emphasis on increasing consumerism among tourists, wine could be a big gainer.
The sale and consumption of alcohol is strictly controlled and must not be in public except in licensed hotels, restaurants and bars. A liquor license is required by non-Muslim resident consumers who wish to purchase alcohol for home consumption in the UAE.
The wine market is concentrated on higher-end wines from around the globe. Although some mid-segment wines depending on margins and quality are also popular. Duty Free sales have become a significant sales channel in the UAE. Although the market is small most of the wine producers would like to be seen here. Dubai has metamorphosed into a major tourist and business destination attracting people from all over the world and wine makers make it their destination too.
But the popularity of the market with only two distributors MMI and African & Eastern makes it difficult for small wineries to attract distributors with their products. Many producers induce distributors with advertisements to promote their products.
Given the large number of hotel rooms likely to come up in the near future the task of making exhaustive wine lists is likely to be a daunting one. MMI has a list of nearly 3,000 wines but most sommeliers are unable to get hold of these wines. For distributors and hotels the problem is that stocking a large number of wines to create exhaustive wine lists results in their inability to shift these wines as many of them do not get sold. For sommeliers and F&B managers, it can be frustrating not to get the stocks they want especially as they have to stock uncommon wines if their wine lists are to stand out.
Distributors however have a point. On the retail front which comprises nearly 20 per cent of sales, people have quotas and are not willing to use these quotas on wine. So it is important to stock only wines that will sell. But on the restaurants front the scenario is extremely difficult. Stocks are always not available to replace depleted stocks especially if there is no advanced warning. Most sommeliers order wines for a large number of outlets making their job doubly difficult. A good idea perhaps would be to perhaps have a quota system for hotels to directly import based on their revenues.
While the lack of distributors is part of the problem the non-availability of trained staff can also deter hotels from creating a wine culture akin to that in Europe. More professional sommeliers, and more training in wine knowledge would help staff to sell more and better wines.
For sommeliers the challenge is to plan as early as three months. Many would like to see import tax reduced so as to enable them to increase their inventories. These factors not withstanding Dubai is a promising wine market but there are some pointers to remember.
The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a federation of seven Emirates, or states. These are Dubai, Fujairah, Ras Al-Khaimah, Umm Al-Qaiwain, Sharjah, Ajman, and Abu Dhabi, the capital of the UAE. Each of the Emirates is virtually independent and can apply its own laws, especially those relating to sales and consumption of alcoholic drinks. Sharjah, for example is an alcohol-free state and it is not possible to buy alcohol at all, not even in the most exclusive restaurants. The alcohol ban was imposed in Sharjah over 20 years ago. In Abu Dhabi alcohol is mainly sold in four and five-star hotels and licensed outlets, restaurants, bars and a few golf courses.
While one Emirate might enforce its laws by being alcohol-free, another might allow the consumption of alcohol in hotels and in the privacy of a consumer’s home. This issue might essentially be in conflict with Islamic codes, but for the native Emirate, providing hospitality is defined by satisfying guests’ needs. As a result, some off-trade alcoholic drinks purchases may be made on this basis.
For religious reasons, the alcoholic drinks market could not be promoted or supported as such, however a solution was found: develop the distribution. At the end of the review period, there were no alcoholic drinks-producing companies in the UAE; however the import business had already developed to an impressive extent and lay firmly in the hands of two players – Maritime & Mercantile International (MMI) and African & Eastern NE BVI Ltd – run by expatriate entrepreneurs and multinational companies.
Carlton & United Breweries owns the majority of African & Eastern NE BVI Ltd with Foster’s Group Ltd owning 40%. MMI is a subsidiary of the Emirates Group that owns Emirates Airlines.
The fundamental changes in alcoholic drinks in the UAE are a part of the rapid changes affecting the whole country. The changes are aimed at increasing consumerism amongst incoming tourists rather than local people, meaning both expatriates and Emirates. The main distribution channel for alcoholic drinks is the on-trade. Hotels and hotel-related foodservice are represented within this channel account for over 80% of alcoholic drinks volume sales. The large ethnic groups in the UAE of Arabs, Indians, Pakistanis, Afghans, Iranians, Filipinos, and Bangladeshi, all have different beliefs and cultures, thus celebrations that involve consumption of alcoholic drinks are varied.
Courtesy: Reports from http://www.ambrosiaindia.com
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 Winemaker David Rowe joined Indian Food Company in summer 2006 and soon enough, Vin & Vouloir wines found themselves in the winning list at India Wine Challenge 2007. This British winemaker, settled in wine country Bordeaux, enjoys the challenge of working in India, a new entrant on the world wine map.
Maharashtra is great for growing grapes, concedes David, yet a lot of work needs to go in at the vineyards to get the grapes that make great wines. Though production of table grapes is much higher than wine grapes, it is imperative to source the latter for winemaking. ‘Given the scarcity of wine grapes, unless a winery has its own vineyards, the current practice in India is to blend table grapes and wine grapes,’ informs David. Sourcing grapes is the first of the challenges, no doubt.
‘I am using only wine grapes,’ he reports, which shows through in the quality of his premium wines. He goes a step further and has a special selection of yeasts, a different one for each grape variety, imported from France.
Once the grapes, yeast, and winemaking itself is taken care of, the bottles are imported from France. No second hand bottles will pass the David test!
Nurturing the V & V brand of wines with the very best, this winemaker is not interested in bulk wines: ‘I refuse to blend from other wines.’ Buying bulk wine and then blending and bottling may be a new trend in India, according to David, but he keeps to his own methodology of winemaking from scratch.
The vineyards are where it all begins. David is looking forward to improvement in viticulture practices and increased wine grape availability. Mercier, a French company is now collaborating with Indian Food Company Pvt Ltd on this front, informs David.
‘It is easy to build a winery and import equipment, have a very good winemaking facility. But for good wine you need good grapes’ he summarizes. ‘Improve the quality of grapes.’ Viticulture is the cornerstone of the Indian wine industry. Scarcity of wine grapes results in cost escalation, which then makes winemaking a costly proposition in India. David who is also an ex-editor of UK’s leading wine magazine Decanter, says that increasing wine-grape production will make Indian wine pricing competitive in the international market.
‘Compared to most winemaking countries, the cost of grapes is high in India,’ says the winemaker. Now that certainly is a chief reason for high MRPs. Illustrating the current gap, David says, ‘I can buy red wine in France under 60 cents.’ Where as an Indian wine is nowhere less than $10 a bottle. ‘Grapes are available at up to Rs 40 a Kg,’ says David. Cost reduction is inversely proportional to availability and cost of grapes.
That was about pricing. Coming to market prospects, he enlightens that quality consciousness and competitive pricing (which begins at the vineyards) is the mantra for a larger demand in the export market. The local market is also seeing a steady rise.
V & V’s vintage 2007 -- Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin, Rose, Shiraz and Cabernet are in the market, and doing well, given the increasing number of converts to the wine-lovers’ club. ‘There is an explosion in wine drinking in India. There is a lot of interest in wine. People are much more knowledgeable about wine,’ shares David. And, for his favourite wine? ‘I love Shiraz wines from France, Indian and Australia,’ admits the winemaker. ‘The Indian Shiraz is closer to the French, than Australian Shiraz’ he adds.
Well, yes, wine consumers are growing in India, therefore, wine production has to take the cue. It is difficult to sell abroad with such pricing. So what does the winemaker prescribe? ‘Control grape quality. Wineries should try and have their own vineyards, then cost of production comes down.’ And consequently pricing…
Though, new in the league of wine producing countries, India has much to offer wine lovers across the globe, feels David, who spends a lot of time in India. He knows the potential, but pricing has to be worked out before Indian wines make it big in the international arena.
Special report for indianwine.com Venki & Anisha Sharma
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 UK based, Australian winemaker John Worontschak lets his magic loose at a single winery in India –Indus Wines, Nashik. While two of his first wines received the Seal of Approval at the International Wine Challenge, he is enjoying himself fussing over the next vintage. “2006 Shiraz Reserve and 2006 Sauvignon Blanc are ready,” he announces, enjoying sunny Nashik as much as his work at the Indus winery.
Though Worontschak handpicked a single Indian winery for his work here, he is hardly new to India. “20 years ago I travelled all over India by train. I lived on a houseboat on Dal lake in Kashmir, visited Agra to see Taj Mahal…” Touristy stuff, you’d say, but that is when it dawned on John that Kashmir, with its “Europe like climate” could be growing wine grapes. Even though it hasn’t happened as yet, Nashik is pretty good for him. “Awesome,” is how he puts it. “The wines are getting better and better and are pretty good already”. We quite agree about the “getting better” part, going by the India Wine Challenge results, and reported increase in sales.
Nashik with its share of monsoon rain and sunshine is quite different from other wine growing districts in the world, says John. The land, the climate, its people and the way things are done here, make Nashik stand out in his radar. Even though he was in Russia a week before landing in Nashik and in Bulgaria the week before that, his excitement about being in sunny Nashik to check on his wine tanks, outweighs any travel fatigue.
While in India, is he having a fill on Indian cuisine to pair with his wine experience? You bet. Traditional Maharashtrian and Iranian has been his current interest. Roasted potato wafers from a Maharashtrian kitchen turned out to be a delight in particular. Well, what about the spicy stuff, that Indian kitchens are famous for? Not one to be scared on that front, “I love spicy Indian food, and can cook curries from scratch!” says the winemaker, adding, “I enjoy fried green chillies.” Well, after a lot of tasting and testing, he shares his recommendations on the Indus wine labels.
On another note, if you ask the visiting winemaker of his perspective of the Indian wine industry, he has suggestions on the economic front too. “Indian wines should focus on selling locally,” the untapped market, of course. “But, the market being small, it is difficult competing for the same piece of the pie.” True. “Players with a previously established distribution system have an advantage. Had there been a totally normal distribution system, quality and price competition would have been easier.” On the export front, his reading is that, “Indian wine should compete in premium wines. Cheap wines from South Africa are already flooding the international market.” Point taken, John!
Considering that India has established itself as a wine producing country, John feels the need for education. “To begin with, basic learning courses should be made available,” he opines, reasoning, “In India the wine market is very embryonic. People have yet to understand wine. You can’t drink whiskey if you have to go to work the next day, so more people will be drinking wine…” Indian wine is growing in credibility on the international front. In India, people are exploring wine, some of them switching over from hard liquor. Right, we get the picture, forward is the way to go. Thanks, John.
Special reporter Anisha Sharma for indianwine.com
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